Ｏutdoors with Bud Repacking wheel bearings
Resource from: Kokomo Perspective Likes:193
Aug 17,2015
Have you ever noticed as you drive down the road the number of boat trailers sitting there appearing abandoned? Most people assume it is due to a flat tire, but it is often the result of a wheel bearing burning out. It happens when you least expect it and never at a convenient time or place.
With a little bit of preventive maintenance, many of these wheel bearing issues can be avoided. The inconvenience and embarrassment need not be encountered. Many times, wheel bearing issues can be avoided by frequently inspecting the condition of the parts and repacking them.
The basic tools required will be a hammer, needle-nose pliers, a jack, lug wrench, jack stands, large flat head screwdriver, and a large adjustable wrench. You will also need some materials including penetrating oil, brake cleaner, Kerosene (a cleaning agent), small pan, clean rags, and wheel bearing grease.
I prefer to use a solid, rolling garage floor jack and place it under the axle fairly close to the backside of the wheel hub. I always block the opposite wheel of the trailer so it does not roll forward or back. Just before raising the trailer, I take the lug wrench and loosen the lug nuts holding the wheel against the hub. I jack the trailer high enough that the wheel is off the ground. I then position a jack stand under the axle and let the weight of the trailer sit on the jack stand. Once the trailer is elevated, go ahead and remove the lug nuts. When I replace the lug nut, I apply some grease the threads of the lug bolts.
You will need to remove the dust cap from the spindle, and this can be done by tapping the outer end of the dust cap up and then down. You can use the screwdriver to pry the dust cap off.
Once the dust cap is removed, you will see a bent cotter pin that will need to be straightened and removed by using the needle-nose pliers. When you remove the cotter pin, you will need to take the adjustable wrench and remove the spindle nut. When the spindle nut is removed, I usually grasp the hub and jiggle it from side-to-side so that it will loosen the entire assembly.
Next, you will see the spindle washer, and that also needs to be removed. Once the washer is out, the outer wheel bearing can be easily removed. After removing the wheel bearing, you can remove the entire hub. Just behind the hub is an inner wheel bearing, another race and seal. I place all of the internal parts in a pan/bowl of Kerosene to remove all grease, dirt, and grime.
Once everything is removed and thoroughly cleaned, I visually inspect the parts. Usually, the cotter pin can be replaced simply, and the spindle nut and spindle washer will only require cleaning. Most of the wear and tear will be the roller bearings incorporated within the inner and outer wheel bearings. Look closely for any rust or pit marks and make sure the roller bearings rotate freely. If any visual inspection reveals signs of rust, pit marks or signs of scored surfaces replace them immediately.
Inside the hub will be an inner and outer race that needs to be inspected. Be certain the race walls are smooth. Any indication of rust, pit marks or scored marks indicate the races need to be replaced. You can remove the inner and outer races by tapping a flat head punch toward the outer portion of the hub. There is also a seal on the back side of the inner bearing that cushions against the inner axle spindle that I recommend replacing every time it is removed.
If nothing needs to be replaced, you can repack the wheel bearings by using wheel bearing grease that is formulated with ingredients that will not be affected by exposure to water.
After properly repacking the bearings, you can reassemble. I prefer to tighten the spindle nut until I cannot rotate the wheel easily by hand. I back the spindle nut off a half turn and reinsert the cotter pin to prevent the spindle nut from loosening and bend the cotter pin at an angle securing the nut. You can replace the dust cover by tapping the end of the cover lightly with the hammer.
If it is necessary to replace the wheel bearings, you can buy replacement kits at local marinas, some auto parts stores. You may have to check the Yellow Pages for bearing stores such as Bearings Incorporated. Many boaters have installed special Bearing Buddies on the trailer hubs that have grease zerks for attaching grease guns to and pumping grease into the bearing assembly.
How often is this necessary? Many trailer manufacturers recommend this maintenance every year if you use your trailer for normal use or at least every 20,000 miles. I prefer more often than that. If you elevate the trailer and rotate the wheel, if the wheel rotates freely and you do not hear any grinding noise, you can probably get by with simple repacking. If you hear any noise or grinding even after towing the trailer a short distance, if you feel any heat or notice any smoke from the wheel, you have most likely burned a bearing, and immediate replacement is necessary.
As mentioned, repacking wheel bearing is fairly simple and can be done within an hour, and it can save you expensive repairs later and it can be done fairly cheap. I carry a complete wheel bearing replacement kit in my tool box and the necessary tools for replacement on the road if the necessity occurs.
(Kokomo Perspective)
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1.The news above mentioned with detailed source are from internet.We are trying our best to assure they are accurate ,timely and safe so as to let bearing users and sellers read more related info.However, it doesn't mean we agree with any point of view referred in above contents and we are not responsible for the authenticity. If you want to publish the news,please note the source and you will be legally responsible for the news published.
2.All news edited and translated by us are specially noted the source"CBCC".
3.For investors,please be cautious for all news.We don't bear any damage brought by late and inaccurate news.
4.If the news we published involves copyright of yours,just let us know.
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